How To Assemble A MiniCat 420

Your brand new MiniCat 420 is in your hands, and you're keen to get on the water.

But before you take your MiniCat out sailing, you'll need to set aside around an hour for assembly.

If you've never assembled one of these portable sailboats before, be sure to follow these step-by-step instructions so you complete the job properly and safely.

Step 1: Lay Out All Parts

Find yourself a clear, flat space and begin by removing all the MiniCat 420 parts from their bags and laying them out neatly.

Once you get used to assembling your MiniCat 420, you'll be able to do it directly from the bags, but for the first time, laying everything out will make the process less complicated.

Step 2: Unroll and Prepare the Frame

Now it's really time to get started!

1. Take the frame piece with the trampoline attached and unroll the fabric onto a flat surface.

2. Flip it over so the side with the orange strap and yellow cords faces downwards.

3. Make sure the lacing is nice and loose.

4. Take the lateral frame pieces and ensure the cleats are correctly positioned facing inside the boat.

5. Thread the first piece through the laced side of the trampoline and insert it into the elbow joint of the frame piece.

6. Repeat the process for the second lateral frame piece by sliding it through the trampoline's fabric pocket and attaching it to the elbow joint.

7. Make sure the fabric sits neatly along all sections.

8. Fit the end frame piece to the two lateral frame pieces.

Step 3: Lace the Trampoline

Now, you need to lift the frame so it's standing vertically.

1. Tighten the laced side of the trampoline so it releases the slack toward the front of the boat.

2. Take the slack and begin lacing the front end of the trampoline from the outside in, making sure it’s secure as you go.

3. You may have to double-check the side and reduce extra slack as you lace.

4. Make sure the static traveler (yellow cord) doesn't get caught up in the lacing process and lies above the trampoline flap.

5. Secure the end of the lacing into the cleat and place the excess rope into the trampoline pocket.

Tip: Take extra time during the lacing process to ensure it's tight and secure. This provides a more comfortable and stable sailing experience, helping reduce slips and falls.

Step 4: Attach the Hulls

Next come the hulls. Here's how you orientate them correctly:

• The MiniCat logo faces outward on each hull.

• Identify the starboard and port hulls before attachment.

• The fill valves are located at the stern of each hull.

Once your hulls are on the correct sides of your MiniCat 420, the next step is to fit them into place:

1. Lift each hull slightly to align the patches with the trampoline frame.

2. Open the valves on each hull by twisting the safety cap and pressing the red button.

3. Place a corner of the frame on your knee for stability, then slide the patches onto the corresponding point of the frame. Always fit the lower patch first.

4. Repeat the process for the remaining three corners.

5. Ensure each hull is properly positioned and that each patch is fitted securely.

Tip: For help with folding away the hulls correctly, be sure to check out our video guide.

Step 5: Install the Keels

Take the keels and match them to the correct orientation of the MiniCat 420. This is easy thanks to the red and black color coding:

• Red keel tab slides into the red hull patch.

• Black keel tab slides into the gray hull patch.

Tip: Flatten each hull patch to create a buckle effect. This makes it much easier to insert the tabs.

Make sure the hull fabric is nice and flat behind each keel. Smooth out any bunches and ensure the tabs are still properly inserted (the rear red tab needs to be fully forward).

Repeat the process for the second keel.

Step 6: Inflate the Hulls

Close all the valves before inflating. If the valve does not fit your pump properly, double up the gasket to create a tight seal.

1. Attach the pump and keep a close eye on the hull as it inflates.

2. Use the pressure gauge to check the correct pressure. You're aiming for .25 Bar (3.7 PSI) on each side. A volleyball-like firmness is a good indicator.

3. Inflate one hull at a time, checking the keel and patch attachments during inflation.

4. Replace the valve caps on both sides.

Tip: If you've been using an electric pump, finish off the process with a hand pump so you can get a more accurate inflation.

Step 7: Install the Dolphin Striker (Staybold) and Under-Rigging

Grab the dolphin striker and secure it by screwing it onto the front crossbar. Make sure it's tight but not over-secured, and don't cross-thread the attachment.

Set up the underwires

Take the underwire set and unravel them all. Ensure no underwire is tangled or misplaced before proceeding. Then:

1. Release the thumb keyring from the dolphin striker and attach all the side wires and backstay wires. Replace the thumb keyring.

2. Attach the side wire snap shackles to the corresponding points on the boat's frame.

3. Bring the backstay wires to the rear of the boat and attach them to the corresponding corners of the frame.

4. Take the bowsprit set and attach the bowsprit wires to the corresponding points on the boat (where you attached the side wires).

5. Fit the bowsprit onto the bottom of the mast pin and leave it resting in position against the front of the boat.

Step 8: Prepare the Mast

Grab the mast rigging, the forestay, the main halyard, and the jib halyard and place them on the trampoline.

Take the mast pieces out of the bag. You can identify the three sections as follows:

• The black section is the top of the mast

• The middle section has a male and female end for attaching to the other 2 sections.

• The bottom section features cleats

When connecting each section, ensure a firm fit. Then, lay the mast on the trampoline with the bottom end facing the front of the boat.

Attach the stays

Take the stays and head to the top of the mast where the pad eyes are located. Make sure the pad eyes are facing the sky:

1. Find the little pegs located just below the pad eyes.

2. Take the pulley section of the stays and ensure the lever is in the down position.

3. Attach the pulley to the pegs of the mast and slide it forward.

4. Unravel the stays and bring them toward the front of the boat.

5. Find the connection point on the side of the boat's frame and attach each stay.

6. The thinner wires (baby stays) get attached to the mid-section of the mast.

Attach the halyards

Take the main halyard and unravel it, then find the pulley situated at the top of the mast:

1. Feed the non-shackled end of the main halyard upwards through the mast's top pulley and then again downwards.

2. Pull all the slack through the pulley and bring both ends of the main halyard to the front of the boat. Make sure it's laid underneath all the existing lines and stays.

3. Clip the main halyard's shackle to the mast's Cunningham and fit the other end into the cleat.

4. Unravel the jib halyard and feed it over the lower pulley. Make sure the shackled end lies on the outside of the pulley.

5. Pull the two ends of the jib halyard to the front of the boat, attach the shackled end to the Cunningham, and fit the other end in the remaining cleat.

Attach the forestay

Take the forestay and unravel it. Start with the end that is attached to one line (not the end with the loop) and bring it to the top of the mast:

1. Fix the end of the forestay to the second (lower) pad eye.

2. Get the other end of the forestay and attach it to the bowsprit.

Step 9: Stepping the Mast

Make sure all wires are lying on top of the trampoline so nothing gets caught up:

1. Ensure the mast step pin is properly seated in its base.

2. Grab the mast in the center and lift it so the base is on the floor and it's standing vertically.

3. Check again that all attachments and lines are lying correctly.

4. Lift the mast vertically and place it onto the pintel. The mast will remain in position when you let go.

5. Check that all shackles are lying in the right positions and aren't twisted.

6. Adjust the forestay tension by pulling the cleat tensioner and using a figure-eight stopper knot to secure it.

7. Tighten the tension on the bowsprit wires and side wires using the turnbuckles and a wrench.

Step 10: Hoist the Sails

We're nearly there! It's now time to raise the sails.

Remove the sails from the bag and unfurl the jib sail.

Set up the jib sail

• Attach the furler drum of the jib sail to the bowsprit.

• Secure the top of the jib to the halyard. Make sure the halyard is untangled.

• Ensure proper tension in the jib luff by tightening the forestay by about an inch. Then, tighten the jib halyard before releasing the forestay by about an inch.

• Wrap the loose end of the luff cord around the fixed line to keep it tidy.

• Undo the jib sheets and knot the two lines together.

Raise the mainsail

Next, unfurl the main sail:

• Align the sail track with the mast and clip the top end to the main halyard.

• Guide the mainsail up using the halyard.

• Lock the halyard in place once fully raised and tidy up the loose end by placing it in the halyard pocket.

• Connect the jib furling line to the corresponding carabine on the trampoline.

Tip: When raising the sail, position the boat with the bow into the wind to make it easier.

Step 11: Install the Boom and Rudder

Attach the boom to the mast, ensuring that the V-shaped fitting goes through the strap and cradles the mast:

1. Fit the second mast strap to the other end of the boom and insert the end cap.

2. Cleat the outhaul and attach the main sheet to the boom's carabine.

3. Attach the boom vang to the base of the mast and pull it tight.

Attach the rudder

Take the rudder to the back of the boat and slide the tiller extension across the trampoline underneath the lines.

1. Take the thumb rings out of the tiller and insert the rudder pins into the brackets. Start with the top set.

2. Secure the pins using the thumb rings to lock them in place.

3. Test the uphaul and downhaul functions. The rudder should break away on impact; reset it by clicking it back into place.

That's it! You're ready to go sailing!

When you're done on the water, pack away the MiniCat 420.

FAQs

Are MiniCat boats easy to assemble?

Yes! MiniCat boats have been designed to be as easy as possible to assemble. The setup process takes less than one hour and can be completed by one person. Plus, you don't need any extra tools or equipment to complete the assembly besides a wrench.

Do I need any extra accessories to assemble a MiniCat boat?

No, you don't need any additional accessories to assemble a MiniCat boat. However, it can help to invest in the optional wheel-bag upgrades for easier transportation and a separate pressure gauge for more accuracy when inflating the hulls.

Which is the best MiniCat for sailing?

The MiniCat 420 is our favorite watercraft for family sailing. If you prefer a smaller version, consider checking out the MiniCat 310 series, best suited for solo sailing.

Final Thoughts

We hope that you found this walkthrough helpful and are already getting the most out of your new watercraft.

If you need any help during the setup process, please don't hesitate to reach out to our team at Red Beard Sailing. We're always happy to provide extra guidance.